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How one of Spain’s top winemakers is preparing for wine’s future. In a world where tradition often takes precedence, Spanish winemaker Miguel A. Torres has successfully propelled his family’s business into a position of global leadership by embracing innovation and planning for the future.
Miguel A. Torres: A Pioneer in Winemaking
As a fourth-generation winemaker, fresh from wine school in France, Miguel A. Torres introduced the cabernet sauvignon and other French grape varieties into the family-owned vineyards in Penedes in 1966. In 1970, a single-variety cabernet called Mas La Plana was introduced to add a premium range to the company’s portfolio of blended wines, such as Sangre de Toro and Viña Sol.
Adapting to Climate Change
Facing the threat of climate change, which could render the company’s home base near Barcelona too hot and dry for quality wine production in 30 to 50 years, the Torres family took proactive measures. They purchased land at higher elevations in the Pyrenees, including a parcel in Benabarre deemed too marginal currently to ripen many classic vinifera grape varieties.
On Quality and Adaptation
“Appellation of origin, in my opinion, becomes secondary. The most important thing is to keep the quality of the wines,” Torres explained in a recent virtual interview. In established vineyards near the company’s historic headquarters, workers are testing various canopy management systems, lower-density planting, and shade nets to delay the ripening of the grapes. Torres believes that while there isn’t a single solution to the challenges of climate change, there are ways to adapt to the new situation.
Expanding the Family Business
The company owns more than 1,000 hectares of vineyards located in Catalonia, including sites in Penedes, Conca de Barbera, Priorat, and Costers del Segre, and works with nearly 700 grape suppliers. The family’s wine operation has also expanded beyond the region, with significant investments made in Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Rias Baixas, and Jumilla along with international estates in Chile and California.
Championing Sustainability in Winemaking
Torres, who has been the president of Familia Torres since 1991, has been a strong advocate for sustainability. After watching Al Gore’s climate-change documentary, An Inconvenient Truth, he created the Torres & Earth program in 2008. The program encourages the use of renewable energy, optimized water resources, and reduced bottle weight. It also promotes the recovery of ancient grape varieties resistant to high temperatures and drought, and explores ways to capture, store, and reuse CO2 to prevent atmospheric emission.
International Wineries for Climate Action
In 2019, the Torres family co-founded the International Wineries for Climate Action with Jackson Family Wines. The group, which now includes more than 170 international wineries, works to mitigate climate impacts on vineyards and wineries and reduce greenhouse-gas emissions. As a part of their commitment, members are required to share a third-party audited greenhouse-gas inventory and pledge to reach zero emissions by 2050.
The Future of Wine
“Wine can be a symbol of resilience against climate change,” Torres says. “We like to have our vineyards and like to produce wine to make people happier.” In this spirit, one of Torres’s long-standing white wine labels is recommended this week, alongside three other notable Spanish labels that offer excellent quality and value.
