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One of Austria’s most glamorous ski resorts offers something unexpected: a smugglers’ route

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One of Austria’s most glamorous ski resorts offers something unexpected: a smugglers’ route. In the remote mountain town of Ischgl, tucked close to the Swiss border, a fascinating history of smuggling unfolds. This intriguing past is now immortalized in the form of ski runs, offering a thrilling exploration of the resort’s unique past.

Ischgl: A Town with a Smuggling History

In 1945, after the Second World War, Austria was under occupation and life in Ischgl was pared to its essentials. Food was scarce, and survival required invention. The neighboring Romansh-speaking village of Samnaun, where goods like tobacco, coffee, and chocolate could still be found, became a lifeline. Smugglers hiked through the mountains under the cover of darkness, dodging border police, and brought home whatever they could manage. This perilous but necessary work became a lifeline between 1945 and 1955, a decade marked by scarcity and uncertainty in the high Alps.

Discovering the Smugglers’ Route

Today, the trails once taken by these postwar smugglers have been groomed into three ski runs for different ski levels. The routes range from just over 40 kilometers in length (the easier, “bronze” route) to almost 62 km for expert skiers. Maps for the route can be found at all ski ticket offices in Ischgl and Samnaun. A guide is not required, but the resort does offer a guided tour once a week. This provides a unique opportunity to discover the resort’s smuggling past on skis.

A Journey with a Smuggler’s Son

One of the guides, Gottlieb Jehle, is the son of a smuggler. Now in his 70s, he skis with the elegance of someone decades younger. Jehle takes skiers on a journey, starting from a small stone-and-wood building, a former border police post where crossings were once closely watched. The route twists and dips, dropping into steep pitches before easing into a long, generous track. Rugged, snow-capped peaks rise around, recreating the adventure of a clandestine run.

The Silvretta Arena

After skiing the smuggling run, you return to Silvretta Arena via a shuttle bus and gondola. The resort is designed in a broad circular layout, making the mountain easy to navigate. There is skiing for all skill levels, and every turn on the slopes is a brush with the past. The mountains hold the stories of those who came before, and they are not just scenery, they are memory, adventure, and tradition, all carved into the snow.

Visiting Ischgl

For those planning to visit, you can fly into either Munich or Zurich. From there, take a train toward Landeck-Zams, the nearest major rail station to Ischgl. Once in Landeck-Zams, a local bus, shuttle service, or taxi can take you directly to Ischgl, which is about 45 minutes away. The Silvretta Arena is on the IKON pass. For accommodation, Hotel Eldorado, a cozy and stylish base, is a 500-meter walk to the nearest lift.

Ischgl is not just a ski resort; it is a place where history, adventure, and tradition blend seamlessly, offering a unique experience to all who visit.

author avatar
Ethan Radcliffe
Ethan Radcliffe is a senior reporter and digital editor at The Toronto Insider, specializing in Canadian federal policy, GTA urban development, and national economic trends. With over a decade of experience in North American journalism, Ethan focuses on translating complex legislative and economic developments into clear, accessible reporting for Canadian readers. Ethan’s work emphasizes policy analysis, government accountability, and data-driven reporting, with a strong focus on how federal and provincial decisions impact communities across the Greater Toronto Area and beyond. He has covered infrastructure planning, housing policy, fiscal strategy, and regulatory changes affecting Canadian households and businesses. A graduate of Toronto Metropolitan University’s School of Journalism, Ethan brings expertise in investigative reporting, long-form analysis, editorial standards, and digital publishing best practices. His reporting is guided by verifiable sources, public records, and transparent sourcing. In addition to reporting, Ethan has experience in newsroom editing, fact-checking workflows, SEO-informed journalism, and audience analytics, ensuring stories meet both editorial integrity standards and modern digital discoverability requirements. Ethan is committed to objective, fact-driven journalism and adheres to established ethical guidelines, prioritizing accuracy, clarity, and public trust in all reporting.

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