With guests souring on U.S. wines, Canadian sommeliers are increasingly called upon to recommend alternatives that are closer to home. The trend has seen Canadian and international wines promoted as viable alternatives to the popular American varieties. This shift in taste has been noticeable since March, with conversations with customers increasingly focusing on wines from local vineyards as well as bottles from other quality winemaking regions.
Canadian Sommeliers Seize the Opportunity
Canadian sommeliers are excited about the changing dynamics. According to Christian Hamel, wine director of Harbour 60, a recently refurbished steak house in Toronto, “People have been really open to recommendations, so it’s fun because we have the option to bring any style of wine to the table.”
In line with the classic steak house combination of robust reds with steak or fresh whites with seafood, Hamel is using this as an opportunity to direct guests’ attention to ripe shiraz viogniers from Australia and crisp, refreshing whites made in Japan with the Koshu grape.
Replacing U.S. Wines with Local and International Wines
At Stable House Bistro, a wine bar in Vancouver’s South Granville district, wine director Christina Hartigan took the bold step of removing U.S. wines from the by-the-glass list. Instead, she introduced additional labels from British Columbia as well as wines from Spain, South Africa, and Australia.
“We have 20 wines by the glass and they’re always rotating so there’s always something new to discover,” Hartigan says. “It was easy for us to increase the number of B.C. selections, which people responded to with enthusiasm.”
Shifting Focus from American Wines
Similar sentiments echo across the country. When Restaurant Asteur in Boisbriand, a suburb in the greater Montreal area, celebrated its opening, it featured a 300-bottle list developed by sommelier Victoria Savoie. The focus was on Burgundy, Tuscany, and American wines.
However, by March, Savoie noticed that the demand for American wines was waning. Consequently, she decided to set aside those American wines to age in the cellar. A pinot noir from Oregon that she had selected for the seasonal tasting menu was replaced with a German expression made by Jean Stodden.
“Now, each wine pairing menu includes at least one Canadian producer,” Savoie explains.
Alternative Wine Recommendations from Sommeliers
We asked these sommeliers to share some of their go-to alternative wine picks. In response to the question, “What do you suggest as an alternative to classic American red wine styles, such as cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir?” Hartigan recommended several B.C. wines such as Corcelettes Syrah, Covert Farms cabernet sauvignon and LaStella Fortissimo, a merlot, cabernet and sangiovese blend.
Victoria Savoie suggested a German pinot noir made by Jean Stodden. Christian Hamel, on the other hand, was having fun with Australian wines, specifically a Clonakilla Shiraz Viognier 2017 from Canberra.
Exciting Wines to Pour for Guests
When asked about the wines they’re currently excited to pour for guests, Victoria Savoie mentioned the Domaine Lafrance Cuvée Spéciale ice cider, which is aged for 10 years in barrels. Christina Hartigan pointed to a riesling that Tantalus Vineyards made with grapes from Ontario. Christian Hamel, on the other hand, was excited about Japanese wine made from the Koshu grape, including Grace vineyards Koshu 2023.
The changing tastes of guests and the shift away from American wines present Canadian sommeliers with an exciting opportunity to showcase a wider variety of wines, including local and international varieties. This trend is a testament to the versatility and quality of wines available from other regions.
